Carretera Austral

The Carretera Austral in the South of Chile is so beautiful, that we'll leave it to the pictures to do most of the talking.
It is a trip of the extrems. Incredible landscapes, never seen vegetation and colors. Wild and untouched, with glaciers and unspoiled rivers and lakes. Because most of the roads are unpaved and sometimes very steep, the trip can be heaven or hell, depending on the weather and your car. Luckily, the weather was on our side and our car is the best - as you know. :-) One local told us, that it was in fact the first sunny week in two month and that the temperatures can easily reach minus 25 degrees celsius in winter.






After crossing the border to Chile at Los Antiguos and leaving the small town Chile Chico behind us, the awesome panorama of the Lago Gerenal Carrera with its uncountable blue shades left us speachless.
Or in Flow's case upside down.






From sleepy Puerto Tranquilo, you can visit by boat the Capilla de Marmol, marble caves carved and polished by the water in thousends of years. (Our enthusiastic guide even said they were 3000 milions years old, but well, that seems a little bit exagerated) The colour of the water made us believe we were in the Caribbean and we even took a little dip ignoring the cold.














The millions of flowers made up for the dusty roads. Sometimes there were fiels of flowers, as far as the eye could see.









In the little villages along the way, the locals like to embellish their gardens with roses. The houses still look the same way as in the times of the pioneers. And this isn't so long ago. Some villages are only 70 years old.





The construction of the carretera, the road to the wild south only started in 1983. Up to this day it is 1182 km long, from Caleta Gonzalo in the north to Villa Higgins in the south. Plans are to prolongue the road until Puerto Natales, but you only need to get a closer look at the map to wonder how this should be possible. Only glaciers and fjords. Good luck with that!

We celebrated the new year in a camping near Coyhaique with Jürgen, Claudia and their kids Marius and Eva. The german family had more or less the same itinery as we did, so we shared some days together.






In Puerto Cisnes, after the worst 20 km of the Carretera, we were recompensated by the most wonderful sunset at the harbour. No, these colours are genuine, no photoshop needed!






As always the small details like that out of time window are the most charming.






Less charming for some are the difficult roads. I say for some because our powerful Moby Dick never failed us and even pulled out a unlucky truck from the ditch. It can be a real asset to have 320 horsepower and 4x4!






After these efforts we relaxed at the hot springs of Puyuhuapi. Aaaah so good!






On the only rainy day, nature offered us to stay under its umbrella.






We pushed as far as Chaitén in the north of the Carretera Austral. Due to the eruption in May 2008 of the volcano only 10 km away, Chaitén was transformed in a ghost town. The population was evacuated and starts slowly moving back, ignoring the thread of the next eruption.
But the town still looks very gloomy and many houses are still burried under the volcanic ash.






We weren't sad to leave Chaitén for Futalefú, world famous amongst kayakers for the mighty river Futalefú. Flow was a very active kajaker some years ago and was thrilled to meet by chance friends from Switzerland, who were there specially to kayak.
We stayed at the campside Cara del Indio, directly by the river, and while Flow went kayaking with his friends, Mireille tried rafting, which she enjoyed very much. The Futalefú has strong currents, much water and therefore huge waves. It was a blast!









Flow could have stayed for a week, but there are so many things left to see! So after a couple of days we crossed the border again, back to Argentina, and you will soon read from us again.

the 4x4 pick-up

Powerful 4x4 pick-up with cabover, 5 pax, to hit securely every trails. Registration in California making it easier to purchase locally. See: presentation of the motorhome (text in french, with photos).Available in February 2011, in Peru or nearby.130 000 miles, 21 500 euros.Good shape. Sold with toolbox, equipment for cooking, sleeping and picnics.Contact: mjaton@gmx.ch.

Keywords: sale sell motorhome 4x4 pick-up camper Argentina Brasil Chile Uruguay Peru Bolivia Ecuador 2010 2011.

Ruta 40

Ok, wir geben es zu. Nach 10 Tagen Luxus in der Antarktis, mit herrlichem Essen und wo wir uns wie Kinder von einem Highlight zum nächsten führen liessen, war die Rückkehr zum Camper-Alltag etwas hart. Ushuaia hat uns wie üblich mit eisigem Wind und Regen begrüsst und Moby Dick (unser Camper) mit einem neuen Kühlschrank-Streik. Gelernt: wenn man in so kalte Gegenden fährt, sollte man checken, dass der Gasmann Propan in den Gastank lädt und nicht - wie bei uns - Butan. Der gefriert nämlich. Jetzt wollten wir nur eines: möglichst schnell in wärmere Gefielde. Also raus aus Feuerland und die legendäre Ruta 40 hoch, den Anden entlang um - irgendwann - in Peru anzukommen. Das sind ca 5000 km, aber vorher gibt es zum Glück ja noch einiges zu sehen.







Gerade als wir Rio Grande (das Mekka der Fliegenfischerei in Feuerland) hinter uns lassen wollten, flog uns ein von einem Bus verursachten Steinregen entgegen und.. genau: traf unsere Windschutzscheibe.
Den Riss haben wir flicken lassen, so dass er sich nicht noch weiter ausbreitet, aber in eine neue Windschutzscheibe wollen wir - wenn überhaupt - erst nach der Ruta 40 investieren, denn die hat es bezüglich fliegenden Steinen in sich.

Nach vier Tagen on the road sind wir in El Calafate angekommen und - oh Freude! - wieder auf unsere liebsten Franzosen gestossen, die es mit ihrer Fahrt gegen Norden gemütlicher genommen hatten als erwartet.

Zusammen haben wir uns den Perito Moreno angeschaut. Sogar nach all dem ewigen Eis der Antarkis ist dieser Gletscher verdammt eindrücklich. 30km lang, 5km breit und 60m hoch! Ausserdem wächst er - der globalen Erwärmung zum Trotz - gut 2m pro Tag. Also haben wir über eine Stunde davor ausgeharrt in der Hoffnung, eine Riesenwand abbrechen zu sehen. Der Perito hat gegrollt, gekracht und ab und zu einen grossen Brocken in den See fallen lassen - der gigantische Iceberg blieb uns aber verwehrt.














Ausser dem Perito hatte Calafate ein weiteres Highlight zu bieten: endlich ENDLICH sind wir dem Kühlschrank-Mysterium (ein Tag funktioniere ich, ein Tag nicht) auf die Schliche gekommen. Es lag am Thermostat! Gracias Daniel, vier Kühlschrankspezialisten hatten sich zuvor daran die Zähne ausgebissen, dabei war nur der Thermostat kaputt. Eine kleine Reparatur mit grosser Wirkung: seither ist Mr. Iceman nie mehr ausgefallen, juhu.

Eingedeckt mit Esswaren, Christbaumschmuck, vollgetankt und eskortiert von unseren treuen Franzosen sind wir nach El Chalten aufgebrochen. Dieses kleine Dorf am Fuss des imposanten Fitzroy-Massivs wird einmal das Zermatt Argentiniens sein. Seit kurzem führt eine asphaltierte Strasse dorthin und der Trekking-Tourismus erlebt seinen ersten Boom.







Man kann Wanderausrüstungen mieten und auf eigene Faust gut ausgeschilderten Pfaden folgen um Bergpanoramas zu entdecken, die sogar einem blasierten Schweizer das Herz höher schlagen lassen. Das Wetter ist allerdings sehr unbeständig und ein sonniger Tag kann in kürzester Zeit kippen. In der Nacht haben Windböen derart am Camper gerüttelt, dass wir alle halben Stunden aufgewacht sind.

Am Tag der Wanderung zu den Tres Cerros hatten wir aber bestes Wetter und konnten so die erstaunlich spitzen Berge bewundern, die sich gerne in Wolken hüllen. Pierre war leider nicht von der Partie. Er blieb mit Rückenschmerzen und Katze Baya im VW Bus zurück. Nach sechs Wanderstunden kamen wir euphorisiert und mit tausend neuen Bildern in der Kamera und im Kopf zurück.














Weihnachten haben wir dann beim Lago Desierto, 40 km von El Chalten, gefeiert. Youna und Pierre teilen ihren edlen Foie Gras mit uns, den sie seit 10000 km mitgeschleppt hatten. Zur Hauptspeise gab es saftige Steaks und zum Dessert eine Meringuetorte. Baya spielte mit dem Weihnachtsbaum und wir spielten UNO. Es war richtig schön.




















Während unsere Freunde den nächsten Tag etwas gemütlicher angingen, sind Flo und ich noch auf einen Trek. Es hätte eine kleine Wanderung zu einem Gletschersee werden sollen, aber plötzlich packte uns der Ehrgeiz und wir sind immer weiter hoch, bis wir irgendwann auf den Gletscher runter sahen und nur der tiefe Schnee uns das letzte Stück zum Gipfel versperrte. Eine der schönsten Wanderungen, die wir je erlebt haben.













Schliesslich nahmen wir sie dann doch in Angriff, die berühmte Ruta 40. Che Guevara ist sie mit dem Motorrad gefahren, und jeder der keinen Kick mehr out of the Route 66 in USA kriegt, nimmt sich diese unendliche Schotterstrasse vor, die den Anden von Süden nach Norden folgt. Jetzt oder nie, denn tatsächlich wird die Ruta 40 langsam aber sicher geteert und ist bald eine weitere zahme Strasse durchs Niemandsland. Jetzt aber hat es noch genügend ungemütliche Abschnitte, um sie als abenteuerlich zu qualifizieren.








Besonders schön ist es in der Wüste abends, wenn man den Motor abstellt und sich für die Nacht einrichtet. Der Himmel färbt sich glutrot und mit etwas Glück schauen wilde Pferde vorbei. Dazu der herbe Geruch der unzähligen Wüstenpflanzen.



















Ein Highlight der Ruta 40 ist der Besuch der Cuevas de la Manos. Achttausend Jahre alte Höhlenmalereien mit Handabdrücke als populärstes Motiv. Wenn man gut sucht findet man vielleicht sogar den einzigen Abdruck mit sechs Fingern.



















Und dann war es schon wieder Zeit Abschied von Youna und Pierre zu nehmen. Sie wollen möglichst schnell nach Bolivien und wir wollen die wilde Carretera Austal auf unserem Weg nach Norden erleben. Ich wette, wir werden uns wiedersehen.

Antarctica

The seventh continent. The one that belongs to no country but to those adventurers and scientists who the are brave enough to set foot on it - and to the tourists, who pay good money to experience the thrill and the awesome landscapes. Obviously, we belonged to the less gamourous third type. But even before our ship, the "Expedition", left the harbour of Ushuaia, you could feel the excitement amongst the 120 passengers, all secretly convinced that they were in fact true explorers, and on the trip of their lifetime. Of course we felt the same. For those of you who rather see the real thing than to read it, here a small movie (cut on the iphone, so don't expect tv quality. Also, and this really makes me angry, I failed with my attempt to put music underneath it.) about our trip:

We could tell you so much about those 10 days, that we might bore you. To make it short but sweet, here the highlites:

the people!

We've met so many nice folks, that it made this incredible trip even better. On deck, at dinner or at the polar bear bar, there always was much laughter and even more drinks. Eliane, Bettina, Scott, Guy, Bryce, Vanessa, Michelle, Anjli, Dhruve, Desmond, Shaun, Dylon, Laurent, any many more inculding the wonderful crew: thanks again for your great company!









Dhruve, Anjli, Vanessa, Bettina








Eliane and Laurent








Flow and Desmond








Dylon, Bettina, Guy and Bryce

the landscapes!

Icebergs, like floating buildings from Salvatore Dali, the sun that almost never sets, we were jaw-dropping all the time. When the weather was on our side, we had landings twice a day, using zodiacs to get to the shore. You'd have to see it with your own eyes, but here some picture to make up for it.



















the wildlife!

If you find penguins charming (and who doesn't?) you'be thrilled to see how many you encounter in Antarctica. They do not fear men, but they are much to busy fishing, building nests and protecting their eggs from other birds to care a lot about us. But if you sit very still, trying to look like a penguine yourself, they might come and pay you a short visit.





























We did also see some seals, even the rare leopard seal (the one penguins fear the most), but don't expect some action here. They can lay on shore for days, not moving more then a fin. Fins and tails from a far was all we saw from the wales. Luckily, we saw them up close before, at the Pensinsula Valdes.










the food!

I guess everybody left the ship after ten days with some pounds more on their hips! Three times a day, we heard the voice of the hotel manager: it is bon appetit time!!! It became some kind of running joke, but we never missed the call, because the food was so exquisit. We've even seen some vegetariens turn their back on their philosophie. (Sorry Bettina!)










One day, we even had a barbecue, at 65* south! On another, the Swiss amongst us were happy to be served a delicious Züri Gschnetzlets the most famous dish from Zurich.










the crew!

The crew of the Expedition was just awesome and gave us many insights on the wildlife, the history and geology of the seventh continent. And always with a smile. You guys are really worth your money!











So would we do it again? Sure we would! But as we've been told at embarking: this is the trip of your lifetime. So one time will probably have to do the trick.

the way to Ushuaia

Poor lonesome campers, on a long long way from home.
Yes, the way was long, and some experiences were a pain in the a.. but it was absolutely worth while. Read on if you wanna know more.

In german we say: Scherben bringen Glück. So you could think: after a smashed window, we should be lucky for a while. Let me tell you: it wasn't so. At the Pinguin Colony of Punta Tombo, with half a million pinguins the largest colony of South America, everything was still great. We couldn't stop taking pictures of the pinguines, one cuter than the next.




After this and a full moon night spent in the wild at Cabo Raso, infront of the ocean, the wind picked up and so did the first problems, especially for our french friends. On the ruta 3 bevor Comodoro Rivadavia, the wind blowed with 130 km/h from the side and.. teard their roof away! Pierre hat to hang on to it with all his weight for fourty kilometers until Comodoro. What a wortkout! We couldn't even help because we were half a hour behind and didn't see the whole thing.

While they fixed their roof in Comodoro, we replaced our broken window and noticed that our fridge wasn't working any more. We cleaned all the pipes and left the windy city as fast as we could. Pierre and Youna wanted to do some shopping first. Bad idea. While they were in the supermarket, their camper got robed - on a guarded parking lot! They took everything of value: computer, camera, hard disk with all the saved pictures, iphone, even the goggles for birdwatch and (very bitter) the great bottle of french wine, they had been saving for christmas. Luckily the cat, Baya, was fine. Still in shock, she didn't leave the camper through the open window.

Again, we weren't there to help. Actually, we had problems of our own: our first flat tire, in the middle of the desert, with 2 important tools missing to fix it and no phone connection. Finally, some locals came to help us. But it was Florian who did all the work. This trip is making a real handy man out of him. :-)



Richer in experiences we could haved lived without, we were recompensated for our troubles at the Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados. Huge petrified trees, 150 million years old! In that time, Patagonia was not desertic but covered in lush rain forests. After volcanic irruptions, the trees were burried under volcanic ash and the minerals moleclules replaced the wood mulecules, making perfect stone copies of the trees. Really impressive.








This was the last time, we could wear a t-shirt. At Puerto San Julian (nice small sleepy place, perfect for a Hitchcock movie like The Birds) the temperature dropped hard and has never gone up since. The wind allways takes you by surprise. It can be calm and without warning it picks up and nearly blows you off your feet.

The landscapes though, are incredible. Some consider them boring, sometimes the flat lands dont change for hours, but the feeling is liberating.





After ugly Rio Gallegos we crossed the Magellan Passage by ferry and found ourselfs in Tierra del Fuego. Here, the landscapes became hillier again and the more we drove to the south, the more it reminded us of Switzerland.

Rio Grande is world famous for its big trouts and fly fishing addicts are flying in from everywhere especially to fish in this mighty river. We thought: why not? Let's try it! Well, I'll tell you why not: because is costs verrrry much (about 600 dollars a day) and you have to release the fish if you are lucky enough to catch one! Crazy fisherman!

Instead, we visited a few working estancias, sheep ranches. Wool baron José Mendéndez reigned over Fireland at the end of the 19th century and two of this huges estancias are still working today. The Estancia Maria Behety, named after his wife owns the world's largest shearing shed. Only 20 men shear 40'000 sheep. They don't need more than 2 or 3 minutes for one! Bad luck for us, it wasn't a shearing day. But the gauchos working there were nice enough to show us arround.









We stayed for one night at the much smaller Estancia Rolito, and shared maté and stories with José and this sister Ana, living there in the fourth generation. They have big problems with wild dogs. They've killed nearly half of their stock. Four years ago, the siblings owned 7000 sheep, now only 4000. And there is nearly nothing you can do against it.








Finally, after 6 weeks on the road and 8800 km since the start in Buenos Aires we reached Ushuaia. The mighty city at the end of the word greated us with the worst wether. Rain, snow and icy wind. And this in summer. Why did we want to come here again?





But it didn't take us long to discover the charm of this city. Once we found the very welcoming Camping La Pista del Andino and were reunited with our french friends we've been missing since Rio Gallegos, the world was becoming a better place.

Together we had a nice 3 hours walk in the National Park Tierra del Fuego (actually 4,5 hours, because Youna had to take a pictures of every tree and mushroom she saw! ;)











Of course, we did also visit the famous prison of Ushuaia. Boy, you didn't want to get a room in this hotel in the begining of the 20th century.

And to celebrate our last evening together, we had an awsome dinner at the fancy restaurant Chez Manu, overlooking Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel.

Why the last evening together? Because we are leaving for the ANTARCTICA today!!! Thank you mom, this is the greatest christmas present ever! So yes, we will be gone on a 10 days cruise getting some Titanic feeling, while Youna and Pierre will be driving north.
Hopefully, we'll meet again, maybe in Peru. Anyway, it was great meeting you guys, we'll miss you.




Ps: actually we're back. In the last minute before posting this blog wifi died on us. So we're back from a incredible cruise and you will soon read all about it.